Beyond The Morphogenesis Art Bag Collection by Julia Daviy

Beyond The Morphogenesis Art Bag Collection by Julia Daviy

In 1952, shortly before his death, mathematician Alan Turing turned his attentions to an important question in theoretical biology: how does complexity arise from homogeneity? How, in other words, does a mass of nondifferentiated cells such as blastocytes or the cells found in a seed, produce the extraordinarily diverse range of cells and tissues that combine to form a lizard, or an oak tree, or a human being?

Turing was already famous for his pioneering work in computer science, and for leading the Allied effort to break the Enigma code during World War II. His speculations on what he termed morphogenesis were grounded in his previous work on the identification and evolution of patterns, and it took biologists more than 60 years to fully confirm his theories.

That confirmation opened the door to applications of morphogenesis in fields ranging from engineering to organ transplantation. And…fashion?

More on Morphogenesis

Turing’s answer came by way of chemistry. When chemicals are introduced to a mass of identical cells—those in an embryo, for example—they react both with each other and with the cells they encounter. These reactions cause the chemicals to interact differently with each cell they encounter as they diffuse across the entire mass, and the progress of these interactions can be described by patterns.
Turing predicted that this reaction-diffusion method would produce six distinct patterns, which form a sort of alphabet for future differentiation. He might not have predicted that it would be used to create a distinguished line of luxury handbags.


Turing proposed a theoretical model for general cellular differentiation. But the reaction-diffusion model can be inflected to create differentiation within a specific scope. For example, Turing’s basic question can be narrowed to one of visual texture: how do complex visual patterns arise from nothing? How do stripes, dots, whorls, and other patterns emerge from groups of identical cells found in embryos and nascent seeds?
3D printing, especially when performed as part of an additive manufacturing process, provides a fascinating opportunity to pursue a focused expression of morphogenesis.
The filaments used in 3D printing are of course homogenous down to their cellular structure. And the process already relies on chemistry: the heat sources used to shape 3D objects act as excitatory factors encouraging chemical reactions that produce solid objects from thin strands of fiber. When additional inputs are added to the equation, additional chemical reactions occur which, when diffused across the printing medium, produce interesting, often intricate patterns.

The result is an entirely new species of textile, one whose visual texture arises organically from the same processes responsible for the panoply of nature. The Morphogenesis line of sustainable bags represents the first couture items produced using this approach. It promises not to be the last.

Photos of Julia Daviy Bags made at the New York Fashion Week Flying Solo Ones to Watch Show.
7 Reasons Why 3D-Printed Clothing is Your Wardrobe’s Dream Come True

7 Reasons Why 3D-Printed Clothing is Your Wardrobe’s Dream Come True

Fashion seasons come and go, but what you wear today has a lasting impact on the world at large.
When you survey your closet, you may see — at face value — a collection of fabrics, styles, personalities, looks, feels. Alternatively, you may not see much of anything at all. What else could there possibly be hiding beneath the surface? 
The answer: a lot.
You see, the global apparel and footwear industry is responsible for 8% of the world’s greenhouse gas emissions, releasing four metric gigatonnes of CO2 into the atmosphere. This is primarily a factor of three phases in the clothing manufacturing process: dyeing and finishing, yarn preparation, and fibre production.
Add to this issues surrounding working conditions, wages and child labor, and the lens in which you view “just clothes” continues to shift. For starters, consider that over 50% of fashion industry workers aren’t even paid minimum wage.
With this working knowledge, it’s easy to make the case for what you wear as more than just fabric — as more than just a fashion statement. What you wear is a reflection of what you stand for. And as a conscious consumer, you are an active participant in the creation of a better, more ethical world.
As a company, we truly believe that 3D printing has the power to revolutionize the fashion industry and its impact on society as we know it. 
While 3D-printed clothing is still a relatively new concept in the public’s eye, it is already very much a reality in both design and production. In fact, Julia Daviy’s New Age Clothing Lab is the premier studio where wearable 3D-printed clothing is produced and made available for sale to the masses.
If you’ve yet to consider 3D-printed clothing as an option for everyday wear, there’s no time like the present. 
Here are seven reasons why the 3D printing of clothing is your wardrobe’s dream come true:

Blue 3D-Printed Suit From The Liberation Collection

3D-Printed Suit from The Liberation Collection 2018

1. You’re Tech Savvy

You always have the newest smartphone in hand. You shop at Amazon’s checkout-free stores. You drive a Tesla (or at least dream about it).


If you think of yourself as a connoisseur of all things tech, then the 3D-printed styles — like the customizable, A-line skirt from Julia Daviy — was literally made for you. Using CAD-type software, 3D printers, and flexible materials, these made-to-order pieces are technological works of art.

2. You Stand By Conscious Brands

In the world of information that we live in, there’s little room for hidden agendas and foul play. Brands should be held accountable to the treatment of their workers, as well as transparency to their customers in the creation of their products from beginning to end.


3D-printing brings these issues front and center. Our methods at Julia Daviy revolve around an industry that is both cruely-free and slavery-free by nature.

3. You Believe in a Future Build Around Sustainability

The impact of fast fashion is one that has led to an increase in the levels of waste produced by the industry every year. The 3D printing of clothing makes it possible for us to imagine a world in which we don’t have to rely on massive amounts of water, toxic chemicals, or waste for the sake of style. From vision to reality, our 3D printed clothing is made from organic materials that are 100% recyclable and sustainable.

4. You’re an Advocate for Animal-Free Fashion

85% of the fur industry’s skins in the world of fashion come from animals held captive on fur factory farms. And this is just one sector of a very large manufacturing machine. If you’re vegan or a strong advocate for animal-free fashion, 3D printing is an animal-free alternative worth exploring.


Fresh Breeze of 3D-Printed Clothing and Accessories

5. You’re Bored with the Status Quo

Fast fashion doesn’t necessarily mean quality fashion. For those who are frustrated with what’s available on the market today, it’s time to invest in 3D-printed styles that are both classic and innovative in design — and durable in wear.

6. You’re a Trendsetter

Fashion is how you express yourself; it’s how you stand out in a crowd. With 3D printed clothing, you’re fashion-forward in both appearance and ethics.

7. You’re Fascinated by the 3D Printing Process

Maybe, above all else, you simply love the idea of 3D printing as a process. From the digital creation of designs to assembly, wear, recycle and repeat, there’s nothing more innovative found across the industry at this moment. 


Well, aside from 4D printing.

Final Thoughts: Why 3D-Printed Clothing is Your Wardrobe’s Dream Come True

Whatever your reason may be, the fact remains that 3D printed clothing is a consideration worth making. You owe it to your wardrobe, the environment, economy, and yourself to push for a new normal — one that imagines a better, more fashionably ethical world for generations to come.

Copyright: Julia Daviy

Any part of this text can not be reproduced.  

How the 3D Printing of Clothing is Shifting Supply Chains in Fashion

How the 3D Printing of Clothing is Shifting Supply Chains in Fashion

How the 3D Printing of Clothing is Shifting Supply Chains in Fashion 

3D printing is altering the perception of industry — shedding light on what materials could be and more importantly, how they could be produced. And truly, it has already begun to change the operational methods behind everything from automotive to architecture.


For the future of consumer goods, 3D printing (inevitably followed by 4D printing) has the potential to scale customization in a very real way. Take the Organic Skirt from Julia Daviy, for example. It’s the first of its kind; 3D modeled, printed, customizable, and ready-to-wear upon delivery.


And while the concept of on-demand, custom-tailored garments is truly astounding, it’s only the tip of the iceberg of benefits for society as a whole. What Tesla did for the auto industry, 3D printing has the potential to do for fashion.


Clothing Production: From Traditional to Circular

Realizing the benefit of 3D printing of clothing for the fashion industry should begin with a long hard look at production cycles.

The fashion sector is one of the largest industries in the global economy worth an estimated $2.4 trillion. A revolving door of trends, paired with non-stop demand, makes for a lot to keep up with from a manufacturing standpoint.

More traditional models of production are time-consuming and waste-heavy. They rely heavily on international labor markets, thanks to the emergence of large textile mills and factories in countries like China during the mid-1970s. Access to labor, raw materials, and increased capacity worked wonders for meeting marketplace demand at minimal cost — but not so much the environment.

 When you consider that, in traditional clothing manufacturing, 30-40% of fabrics are discarded at the stage of cutting and sewing alone, a need for change makes a whole lot of sense. Resources are limited and these methods aren’t sustainable for a world already at odds with climate change.

As a result, the concept of circular fashion has emerged over the last five or so years. It proposes a shift in fashion manufacturing — prioritizing local sourcing and production with an emphasis on using non-toxic, renewable, biodegradable, and recyclable resources. The life cycle of production is focused on long-term use with end-products that are able to be recycled, redesigned, or composted upon discarding.

This consciousness around long-term environmental and socio-economic impact is certainly a step in the right direction. But it does little to address the supply chains in fashion as they exist today — especially as they relate to fast fashion.

Fast Fashion Gone Wrong

With the emergence of brands like Zara, H&M, Top Shop, and Forever 21, fast fashion has become the new norm. It has upended the seasonality of release cycles, minimizing the time between when fashion trends are spotted and made available to customers in-store.

Companies are pressured to feed into this societal need for instant gratification. Even at the risk of negative long-term impact.

To increase the rate of production and keep up with 52 “micro-seasons” a year (compared to the more traditional four: winter, spring, summer, fall) corners have inevitably been cut.

Brands control costs through methods of rapid production and low-quality merchandise. This results in a massive negative impact on the environment through the use of toxic chemicals, dangerous dyes, and materials that are tossed as quickly as they’re purchased – unable to be broken down or given new life.

The 3D Printing Advantage for Fashion Design and Manufacturing

With the 3D printing of clothing, the circular fashion method is brought full circle. It makes the concept of zero-waste possible at every stage — design, logistics, and production. This is in addition to supporting a cruelty-free and slavery-free experience in postprocessing and assembly.


Now, it’s a solution that continues to evolve and challenges to solve for in implementation. But here at Julia Daviy, we’ve already solved for questions around 3D printing with flexible materials and large-format 3D printers. According to our method, we design each piece of clothing digitally — using 3D modelling and CAD software. This allows us to work with 3D printable files or files with patterns, 3D printing each piece of clothing in several parts, and assemble accordingly.


Additionally, we make use of 100% recyclable materials — allowing items to be reworked an unlimited number of times while maintaining quality. We’re even working on a project with our materials manufacturer where we collect used clothing and accessories for repurposing. Above all else, I believe it’s these types of “organic” processes that will help us achieve sustainability in fashion.

Final Thoughts: Supply Chains in Fashion and the 3D Printing of Clothing

Fast fashion implications on American clothing manufacturing won’t be easy to come back from. It remains highly-labor intensive and ill-equipped to embrace advanced technology. But developing a widely-adopted process for 3D printed clothing manufacturing isn’t out of the realm of possibility.


As our work at Julia Daviy has shown, the solutions exist. It’s just about progressing the work already done at a much larger scale. And in doing so, we can more than imagine a day when manufacturing in the fashion industry is truly localized, sustainable, ethical, and problem-solving for future communities.




Behind the Scene of the First Zero-Waste Digitally Customized 3D Printed Skirt

First Zero-Waste Digitally Customized 3D Printed Skirt Commercially Available

3D printing is on the verge of going mainstream. Both in the public eye, where 3D printing is starting to figure in the plots of television shows, and in commercial applications. Investment in commercial 3D printing equipment has grown more than tenfold in the last three years, and some industries—notably aerospace—have begun to adopt 3D printing into their design and manufacturing workflows.   Somewhere between 3D printing’s history as a hobby and its growing future as a means of mass production lie applications like fashion. As I’ve gotten ready to produce the world’s first digitally customizable 3D-printed skirt, I’ve been thinking about how far the technology has come in the last few years, and how a new paradigm is forming around 3D-printed fashion. More than just a new business model, I believe that 3D printing is the method around which an entire new age of fashion is taking shape.  

The Two Eras of Fashion 

For most of human history, fashion was largely a local affair, usually the domain of women responding to the demands of climate and culture. Even where raw materials like cotton or wool were plentiful, clothing designers rarely had a broad range of materials to choose from. The same thing applied to dyes and fixatives like alum, and to the materials used to provide functional and decorative accessories like buttons and beads.  What women in the first age of fashion may have lacked in terms of materials, they more than made up for with technical innovation and ingenious approaches to design that built sophisticated fashion vernaculars out of relatively few components. Those techniques and designs inform fashion to this day, but on a commercial scale they do so at a remove, as inspirations from a past era.  The Industrial Revolution had the same impact on fashion that it did on many other industries. New means of transportation brought raw materials from around the world to factories where garments were produced in mass quantities. The tradition of handcrafted clothing persisted for some time, but even then, dressmakers and tailors were usually working with mechanically produced fabrics.   In the 20th century, widespread globalization produced the fashion industry we know today. Design has been largely divorced from production: fashion designers work with textile firms to select distinctive woven materials or to produce unique ones; their designs, however carefully developed in the studio, are produced in factories, often in problematic conditions. 

Fashion’s Next Era 

We are just getting a glimpse of fashion’s third era. 3D printing offers the same prospect of wholesale change to the fashion industry that the Industrial Revolution delivered. In some ways, new era offers a compelling synthesis of the two that preceded it. 

    The software employed in the 3D printing process reunites the modes of design and production that were rendered discrete by the advent of mass production. On a more practical level, the challenges of 3D fashion design would be familiar to our first-era forebears. 3D designers currently have a relatively small palette of raw materials to choose from, and necessity has given birth to some fascinating advances in technique. At the same time, we benefit from the second era’s legacy: new materials are constantly in development, and are becoming commercially available with increasing frequency.    A New Production Model  The first and second eras of fashion were defined in part by the ways that fashion was consumed. In the first era, fashion often denoted and reinforced affiliation with local or regional communities. While individual designers and garment-makers of special genius were celebrated locally and regionally, they did not produce fashions for large markets.   That has been the second era’s specialty, and the economies of scale necessary for fashion to reach global markets have benefited consumers as surely as they have degraded the lives of garment workers and in many ways degraded the wider fashion vernacular.  3D printing is still an immature enough technology that economies of scale don’t apply just yet. But value- and supply chains serving commercial 3D printing are developing quickly, and the core technology behind 3D printing becomes more powerful each year.   3D clothing was something of a novelty as recently as a few years ago, when designers were devoted to proofs of concept similar to those demonstrated by the more outré entries at fashion shows. It’s a novelty no more. The challenge today is to develop protocols, pipelines, and business models that allow the mainstream production of 3D printed clothing. 

A New Commitment to Environmental Friendliness 

  In emphasizing economies of scale, fashion’s second era didn’t just affect the lives of garment workers: its impact on the environment has been increasingly severe. From short-sightedly intensive cultivation methods to the widespread use of nonbiodegradable materials, our current methods of producing garments for widespread distribution are completely unsustainable.   

The next era of fashion must and will place these concerns at the center of the entire process, from design to manufacture, sale to disposal.

Several prominent designers have made valiant efforts to source their materials ethically, and to reduce the overall environmental impact of their collections.  But those efforts, however noble, are insufficient to the challenges before us. A properly complete rethinking of the fashion industry addresses the need for completely biodegradable materials and zero-waste production methods while offering customers stylish, comfortable garments on their own terms. 3D printing alone fulfils that mandate. 

  Tell us how you see the industry further evolving in the comment section below. Text: Julia Daviy Photo: Danil Kaistro       Any part of these text and photos is a subject of Copyright. Use it for quotation requires a direct link on  

Changing Fashion One Printer at A Time: Why Every Woman Needs 3D Printed Clothing in Her Closet

In 2018, I launched the world’s first-ever fully 3D printed women’s fashion line created on large-format 3D printers and presented it during the last New York Fashion Week. Throughout that week and in the time since, one question I’ve been asked more times than I can count is simply, “why?”

Most people are amazed by the quality of clothing that can be accomplished with my method of 3D printing in fashion, but the reasoning behind moving towards 3D printed clothing goes so far beyond just the aesthetics or function of the pieces. The thing that makes this new paradigm so important, and the thing that drew me to it in the first place, is the enormous potential 3D printing holds for advancement in an ethical and sustainable fashion.

Since I first started experimenting with 3D printing, my vision has always been a world in which fashion production is safer and cleaner, with the serious human and environmental costs that the industry currently inflicts greatly reduced or eliminated. There are a number of ways that 3D printed clothing helps to move that dream towards reality, and raising awareness on those positive impacts is one of the main reasons I design.

A Technological Solution to Serious Environmental Problems

The materials that traditional garment production utilizes cause a lot of problems, and they’re only going to get worse over time.   We know that cotton production is highly dependant on chemicals and fertilizers causing massive environmental damage, and the chromium used in leather tanning is extremely harmful to the people that work with it and the environment it leaches into. But beyond that, we’re also running into a shortage of space.

Textile production is incredibly resource-intensive, and as time marches on, we’re going to get to the point where it just isn’t possible to keep doing it the way we currently do. Cotton production, for instance, requires huge amounts of water. Cotton is grown in India – an already water-starved country – uses 22,500 litres of water per kilogram grown. It also requires large swaths of land to be dedicated to the crop. Neither land nor fresh water is in ample supply and, thanks to climate change and human expansion, every year they only get scarcer.

Imagine a world like the one PayPal co-founder Peter Thiel has, in which, as space and resources dwindle, people move seaward and into floating cities. Where would the resources and space needed to produce clothing come from?

3D printing provides a solution to this resource scarcity problem. Clothes produced with 3D printers utilize materials that don’t require the waste of millions of liters of precious fresh water or land that could be used to grow food, and the printers themselves, even large-scale ones, require very little space in comparison to traditional clothing factories. It’s an elegant technical solution to a pressing problem, and it means that as the world’s population grows and the land we have available to us shrinks, we can continue producing all of the clothing we need while directing our most important resources to where they should go – improving the lives of human beings.

Real Progress Towards Ethical Production Methods

There is a lot of talk in the fashion industry about ethical and sustainable production, but unfortunately, there’s very little action to go along with it. Because ‘sustainability’ is such a buzzword, people get the incorrect impression that we’ve made big strides in fixing the numerous environmental and human problems that come along with traditional garment production – but we haven’t. In reality, we’ve only taken the tiniest of baby steps.

Baby steps aren’t enough, and 3D printing allows us to take some enormous steps towards solving problems like unethical labor practices and out-of-control waste. For instance, clothing created on a 3D printer doesn’t require cutting or sewing, so the demand for cheap labor that drives sweatshops is eliminated from the production process. That has an enormously positive impact on the welfare of women and children all over the world.

The shift in the role of the worker isn’t the only change. The role of the end-consumer also changes, moving them from a passive consumption position to a place where they can be actively involved in the design of their own clothing. That new involvement results in the production clothes that consumers will be happy to wear for years rather than a single season, reducing the massive landfill problem that currently plagues the industry.

The 3D printing process is also extremely efficient in and of itself. Whereas traditional manufacturing produces an enormous amount of waste material, 3D printing uses only as much filament as is required to complete a design, so there is effectively no wasted material discarded during production.

An Opportunity for Everyone to Help Create Change

The reaction to my full line at Fashion Week was incredibly positive but as nice as it was to receive compliments on the visual or functional aspects of the designs, what I was most pleased with was the immensely positive response towards the potential impacts of the technology. I love fashion, and making beautiful clothing is incredibly important to me, but my passion is making a positive change in the industry I love. A huge number of women feel the same way I do, and while few will ever design their own clothing, a consumer wearing a 3D printed garment can do so knowing they’re making a positive contribution towards sustainability in fashion in a very real way.  




Photo: Vita Zamchevska, Olya Helga, Julia Daviy 

Text: Julia Daviy